How much water does the waterer hold?
This varies from unit to unit. Ritchie fountains range in capacity from 1.2 gallons up to 75 gallons. Ritchie quick refill valves negate the need for a larger trough. Having smaller amounts of water allows the water to turn over quickly and stay fresh. It is also more economical to heat fewer gallons of water. Our largest water capacity trough, the WaterMaster 96, holds 75 gallons and is designed for producers that have low water pressure and need the extra standing water available.
Does the water circulate in there?
No. We hear this question from people that think a system like this (without a heat system) is an economical way to keep water from freezing. However, circulating water would require a pump running at all times to circulate water. Also, with no heat or warmer water being added, eventually even circulating water will freeze. Ritchie WaterMaster and CattleMaster can be constant-flowed in lieu of heat, with this water draining to waste, or to a reservoir or pond.
How do you fill the waterer up?
All Ritchie fountains use a valve and float system for automatic refill. This is the same principle as the toilet refill system in your house. The consumer supplies pressurized water to the unit.
The yellow and red doesn’t match my barn. Do they come in any other colors?
How do you clean it?
Most poly units are very easy to clean with the drain plugs located at the ends of the units. Simply push the drain plug in and, on most units, use the plug to plug the valve chamber outlet hole during cleaning. Thrifty King CT units are very well covered up and are a little more difficult to clean. Steel units must have the top cover removed to access the drain plug. An inexpensive toilet brush or similar brush can be used to swish the water around and remove dirt. Ask your local vet for animal safe cleaners should you choose to use one.
Do my animals have to push anything down to make the water turn on?
No. Water is always available to them with the valve and float keeping the fountain filled to the level that the customer sets it at.
How long do the immersion heaters last?
Immersion Heaters are warranted for one year. We recommend taking this heater out at the end of the heating season, cleaning it, and storing it until the next heating season. We know of customers that had multiple heating seasons with this heater by doing this. If left in, this heater can have mineral deposits build up on it. These mineral deposits will create a hot spot and the heater will burn out.
Do you need electricty to run these?
Ritchie Thrifty King units, when used in the right application, do not require electricity. All other units, in freezing conditions, require electricity for the heating system. Ritchie recommends electric service on any new installation, including Thrifty King installations. If heat is needed later on, the electrical service is there. WaterMaster and CattleMaster are available with constant flow for use without electricity.
At what temperature does the thermostat come on?
This varies depending on which unit you are using. Immersion heaters come on around 45 degrees Fahrenheit and go off at around 60 degrees. The disc thermostat is preset to come at 55 degrees (+ or – 5 degrees) Fahrenheit and go off at 65 degrees (+ or – 5 degrees). Larger steel units use a Fenwall thermostat, which is adjustable from 0 degrees Fahrenheit to 100 degrees.
Do I need to use an immersion heater and self-regulating heater with my plastic units?
If these units are being used in a freezing environment, the answer is yes. The exception to this is using Thrifty King units that meet the requirements for energy free usage.
The heat element on one side of my (pick one) Omni, EcoFount, etc. is very hot and the other is lukewarm. What do I need to do to fix this?
The problem here is a burned out or bad heating element, or a bad connection. If it is the element that is farthest away from the thermostat, the thermostat may not be satisfied and that is why the other heater is so hot. Generally the other heating element will not be doing any heating if it is not as hot as the other side. If you have cold hands, a 50-degree element may feel lukewarm. If it is truly warmer than the surrounding components, it may have a bad electrical connection that is passing some electrical current. If this is the case, the electrical connection would probably be hot. Both heaters should always be the same temperature if the components are good. A new heating element or repairing the connection will fix this problem.
Will I be able to add heat to the standard Stall Fount later?
No. The standard Stall Fount is not set up for adding heat. We would recommend purchasing a Stall Fount 125 that comes standard with heat or a Stall Fount II 125 with heat should you see the need for heat in the future.
How are these installed?
A concrete pad large enough for the animals to stand on while drinking is recommended to prevent a mud-hole from forming next to the fountain. We also recommend a step to make livestock step up to the fountain and to aid with cleaning around the fountain. The easiest way to explain this is to go to the installation link on this web-site. You can also download instruction manuals found here to see how installation is done.
What keeps it from tipping over?
Ritchie automatic waterers with poly bases have molded hold down pockets either located inside or outside of the unit. All units need to be anchored to a concrete pad using 3/8” stainless steel anchor bolts.
Can I hook this up with a hose?
Traditional Ritchie automatic waterers are designed to be permanent installations. However our sister line of automatic waterers features an EZFount unit, ideal for warm weather climates, that can be used with a hose. For more information on the Classic Equine by Ritchie visit the website here. Regarding Ritchie automatic waterers, there are certain installations in warm climates where people will hook them up with a garden hose. Poly units with small access panels (WaterMatic 100, WaterMatic 150, WaterMatic 150S, Omni 2) can use Ritchie part #18091, which is the small access panel with a threaded hole through it. This panel can also be used to run electricity to the unit and will accept 1” conduit. The hole is threaded 1-11 ½ NPSM.
Will these work on a gravity-flow system?
Yes. Ritchie offers different valves for different water pressure levels. Our white valve can be used for pressures between 5 and 40 PSI and is geared toward gravity-flow systems.
Can I drill through the side of my poly unit and/or thermal tube?
Drilling through the side of a poly unit or thermal tube will automatically void the warranty and is not recommended. The polyurethane foam that is used to insulate these units must stay dry. If exposed to moisture, the foam soaks up moisture, loses its insulation value, becomes waterlogged, and will freeze.
I have old plumbing and particles in my water. Do I need a water filter?
In most cases, no. Ritchie valves are free flowing and most small particles will pass through the valve and end up in the bottom of the trough. When the unit is cleaned, these particles go out the drain. If the particles are large and causing the valve to clog or stay open, the answer is yes. A screen, such as an agricultural sprayer uses, may be more desirable than a filter. A filter will plug up sooner than a screen. A screen will pass particles that will go through the valve with no problem, whereas the filter will trap them. It is important on new installations to flush the lines of all debris, such as PVC shavings, before hooking up the fountain.
Why do you put water in the grooves?
This is known as the Ritchie water seal and is patented. The water in the grooves creates an airtight seal to disallow cold air entering the valve chamber. Some people will fill this groove with vegetable oil for easier removal in the freezing months. Without this, we would have to use a gasket. It has been proven that when accessing a unit in winter that has a gasket, the gasket will come apart and have to be replaced.
Why does my valve drip?
This can be one of several problems. In new installations, if the waterline was not flushed significantly prior to attaching the valve, a piece of debris may have become lodged in the valve not allowing it to seal. In older installations, over time, the neoprene valve rubber disk on the valve plunger can build up with mineral deposits. These deposits will not let the plunger make a tight seal. Turning the valve rubber (part number 15151 or the 1/2" valve, watch video, and part number 15152 for the 3/4" valve, watch video) over or installing a new valve rubber will solve this problem. A sinking float or a loose or stripped wing nut or thumbscrew can also cause a unit to overflow. This problem can be fixed with new components. When none of the above apply, it is usually a case of too much water pressure that won’t let the valve shut off. When pressure is a problem, the unit should be fitted with a valve designed for higher pressures. If a high-pressure valve does not solve the problem, a pressure regulator must be installed in the line ahead of the valve. Another situation that can cause this is water hammer. The surge from a water hammer situation can cause the valve to sputter for long periods of time creating the appearance that the valve shut off. This can also be solved with an inline pressure regulator.
Why does water gush out of the sides of my CT unit when the cows take a drink?
When this happens, the water level inside is set too high. When the ball closures are at the top of the drink well, there is still water capacity in the trough. When the water level inside is too high and the ball is pushed, water inside is displaced and must go somewhere. Consequently, it comes out through the water seal between the top and the base. This can also happen if the fountain is not installed on a level surface or if you have a leaky valve. If your valve is leaking either replace the valve or the valve rubber. Learn more about our valves here.
I have a CD-50 and need to get some parts.
This is a statement that is often called in to us by people who are not familiar with Ritchie and/or have purchased a property with a fountain on it. When Ritchie installed a powder coating system in 1972, we named the finish CD-50. This was on a decal that was put on all steel powder coated casings. All steel units have a brass serial tag on the casing, which is located directly under the trough. The top line of the serial tag contains the model number and a four-digit serial number. The serial number is actually a date code telling the month and year that the unit was manufactured. If you are unsure of the model number, we can usually determine the model with a description of your waterer. Ritchie waterers are built for longevity so in most cases, parts are readily available for older models that may be labeled with the CD-50 paint.
What is the warranty?
All Ritchie fountains carry a ten-year warranty. On poly units, this is five years full warranty, with a prorated (20% per year) warranty the last five years. Stainless steel troughs and frames carry a full (100%) warranty for 10 years. Steel casings, access panels, and covers carry a prorated (10% per year) warranty for ten years. Valves and heaters are warranted for one year from the date of purchase. Read the full warranty here. All warranty claims must be processed at the original place of purchase.
What if my livestock damage this?
Our warranty does not apply to any appearance items, to any product whose exterior has been damaged or defaced, to any product that has been improperly installed, to any product subjected to misuse, abnormal service or handling, and to any products altered or repaired with other than original equipment or manufacturer’s parts. Click here for more information on our warranty.